Was cleaning the windows on the car the other day and bumped the on glass antenna connector – knocked it straight off with barely a touch!

Made many enquiries and most ended up […]

Do you still have your old regular phone lines and ADSL style internet?  Just a friendly reminder for those that do that both these services are coming to end soon for most of QLD’s […]

I am being threatened with “Injurious Falsehood” for a review I left on a supplier for poor after sales customer service. I thought I had removed all reviews against this seller, but I missed one so […]

If you are in an area that is now serviced by NBN, you need to know that your existing ADSL and home/business phone lines will be disconnected 18 months from the date the NBN was first available […]

Another facet of JustAskDave is aerial photography and video. I have been flying RPA’s (Remote Piloted Aircraft or Radio Controlled aircraft) for around 35 years and decided to investigate […]

Do you live or work in Tewantin, Noosaville or Noosa Heads?  These areas are now online for NBN connection (as well as existing areas Sunshine, Sunrise, Marcus and Peregian Beaches and […]

I have had a few calls of late where Telstra is sending a new NBN modem to it’s existing ADSL customers with no advanced warning. If you do not contact them they will change you over to NBN […]

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This has been fitted to all models now with no probs, there is no change in the 2017 models to the suspension so you should be good to go! It is also easily reverse it should you decide against it […]

The quickest and dirtiest way to stop the door chime is to close the latch, just use a screw driver to flip it as though the door was closed. The switch is in the latch. Of course you have to […]

After doing some research, the requirements were portability, quality and features.  I ended up […]

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Just needs a little bit more ground clearance. I now have the 245/70 r17 Goodyear Duratracs on it which nets a a 1/2″ lift, plus this mod will lift the underbelly […]

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the only way that can be done on the earlier versions (pre EVIC systems, ie 2007 to 2010) is via the Dealer StarScan tool.

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My criteria: Had to be easy to use, had to lift as high as possible.  Pretty simple really!

So with the idea of lifting as high as possible I looked at most of the commercially available options and they all lift from either a single point above the roof or from a strap running under the front and out the back window. Whilst these are easy to implement they did not meet my maximum lift criteria as the pulley system ends up above the hard top limiting its max height.

I saw a post on a US forum where the hoist was for a basket style roof rack and the owner installed some ropes and hooks on the outer edges to grab the hard from the lower outside edges allowing it to pull up flush against the rack – I liked this idea as it brought the top up high.

So to start. I have a standard centre peak roof on the shed with nice solid battens holding up the tin, so I bolted 4 pieces of timber to the battens to run either side of the hard top to attach the pulleys to. The ropes would go over the pulleys on the outside of the hard top. The ropes I wanted to run across to the peak of the roof to the top of a truss as a common point for all the ropes to give a straight pull back to the wall. Also the length from the peak of the roof to the wall was enough to allow the ropes to go from full lifted height right down to the floor. I wanted this so if I ever required I could drop the hard top to the floor.

So many calculations, measurements, recalculations and remeasuments later I started building!  Since a pic is worth a 1000 words, here is a video overview:

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY7bp4zjETM&w=640&h=360%5D

The details:

The hard top is tapered in toward the top so I mounted the timber supports so that the pulleys would be level with the outer edge of the bottom of the hard top, that way the top would be able to pull up between them. This came to 1570mm apart for the pulleys (1500mm apart for the 70x35mm timber I used). These are securely bolted to the roof battens and the pulleys are then mounted so they are directly above the front and rear hard top mounting holes (at 970mm apart front to back).

The brackets are designed in a J shape, made from 3mm thick, 50mm wide steel strip from Bunnings. They were marked at 40mm and then 105mm then bent just over 90 degrees each to give a gap of 65mm in the J. I then made a 27mm thick timber seat for the base of the J from 3 pieces of 9mm ply I had lying around. The idea of this is create a platform for the hard top mounting surface to sit on without the lip of the hard top hitting the bracket and potentially damaging it. The block is only 55mm wide, leaving the gap for the lip to sit in.

Once these were installed and after removing the top I dropped this back to the floor and marked and pilot drilled them for a bolt that could be placed right through the hard top, the bracket and an additional piece of timber running across the hard top on the inside. This was to prevent the hard top spreading over time and provide a shelf to store the front roof panels. The bolt hole positions for the ‘shelf’ timbers were measured from the bolts on the tub to ensure the top was held at the correct width (front 1550mm apart, rear 1525mm apart). I drilled the holes in the ‘shelf’ timber first, then placed that on top of the bracket and used that as a vertical guide to continue the pilot holes in the brackets right the way through.

For ropes I used some 6mm Telstra rope I had lying around. I did a little research and found its breaking strain is over 600kg so should have no problems, though I have found it does stretch so may replace this in the future with steel ropes (2 or 3mm or so). Using the rope I decided to learn rope splicing as well to make it look neat, and also splicing only reduces the ropes strength by around 10%, compared to a knot that can reduce strength by 30% to 50%. So I spliced some small D shackles to the bracket end and mounted them up. The pulleys, after a lot of looking around and major surprise at the prices wanted for them, I ended up buying 40kg rated pulleys from ebay for about $30 for 10 (the same price as one locally!). The pulleys are mounted to the timber with eye bolts, with the end of the eye sliced off to allow the pulley to be fitted on. These were then pulled up tight into the timber which blocked off the eye anyway. The far side ropes then were directed to the top of the roof by a second set of pulleys to get the ropes up as high as possible, above the maximum height of the hard top.  The ropes from all four brackets then run across to a block of 4 pulleys mounted up at the top of the truss to the side so that all 4 ropes had a central place to pull from keeping them together.

All four ropes then run along the line of the truss to the central connection for the winch. Originally I was going to use a manual brake winch (one with a friction brake so it can be wound in or out and stops as soon as pressure is removed from the handle), but when it arrived it was a normal ratchet winch!  I sent that back for a refund and after looking around the cheapest I could find was going to be close to $100 including freight. Whilst looking I stumbled on electric 240v winches and found one with a 125kg / 250kg lifting capacity for just $88 delivered so jumped on it.

This was then mounted at the top of the wall, securely to the wall and the roof truss, then connected to the 4 ropes.

Again I spliced the ropes to make it neat and maximum strength, though had to redo them a few times to get the lengths correct, then again once the ropes settled.

and in use:

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeWOCzjkkf4&w=640&h=360%5D

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j6GL_q8Zbs&w=640&h=360%5D

Hope that helps, any question send me a message!

Cheers, Dave.

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The failed one (replaced under warranty in 2011) was part number 05156106AA, replacement I got is 05156106AD.I got mine from factorymorparparts.com but they sent it via USPS and it took almost 3 weeks to get here. I have heard Rockauto.com is a good place to get them.As for part numbers, this might help:Manufacturer: MoparPart Number: 5156106ADPart: Air Bag ClockspringReplaces: 5156106AA, 5156106AB, 5156106AC, 68000477AA, 68003216AA, 68003216AB, 68003216AC, 68003216AD, 68003216AE, 68003216AF, 68003216AG, 68003216AH

Ok. So first and most importantly – DISCONNECT THE BATTERY….  I have multiple terminals on my battery, all factory wiring to the main terminal and all auxiliary wiring to the secondary terminals. So I simply disconnect the main, slide a piece of scrap timber underneath to avoid it touching again and go make a cuppa and wait for at least 10-15 minutes for all voltage to drain out of the system (you don’t want the airbag to go off in your face).

Now remove the steering column cover, three screws underneath, two of them at the front and one in the middle. All are Torx 20 screws, the front ones need a long shank T20 to reach them. Once the screws are out the lower cover will drop away (with some convincing as it is clipped to the top half and a tight fit over the ignition). I then had to lower the steering column to get the top half off.

Now the hardest part by far of the whole process, removing the horn.  The horn is held on by 3 clips, at approx 10, 2 and 6 (as in position on a clock). These clips are a U shape wire about the thickness of coat hangar wire, protruding out from the horn button toward the dash and clipping under an alloy “hook” on the steering wheel. This is the horn already removed so you can see the 3 wire loops to give you an idea what you are dealing with (click on any of the pics for a full screen view).

This pic might be a little hard to work out, but if you look behind the steering wheel, you will see the holes (at 10, 2 and 6) where you access these clips to remove the horn.  This pic is looking from the dash board side back up into the back of the steering wheel (so I could see the clips for myself to see what I was dealing with!)  They are about 1cm in and reasonably tight. There is a factory tool of course to remove them, so not having one I filed the small end of a old 3mm allen key down to about 1/2 thickness and put a small notch a mm in from the end to help.  Push this in the hole under the wire as hard as possible then push on the horn and the wire clip should push over the end of the lever you made up.  Using the lever bend the wire clip out a little and release the horn and hopefully that section will come away from the steering column. Takes a couple of tries and then it works!  This is the wire clip over the alloy “hook” looking in from the back of the steering wheel, and the tool I made to release the wire:

OK, with the horn off as per below you will see three wires/plugs, two to the horn assembly and one to the top of the steering wheel – all three need to be unplugged (the yellow ones are colour coded, one yellow and one yellow/black so you can’t mix them up).

Then loosen the bolt in the centre of the steering wheel a couple of turns only, and pull on the steering wheel possibly needing to wriggle a little and it will pop toward you then stop when it hits the bolt (the bolt stops the steering wheel hitting you in the face 🙂 ) Now remove the Phillips screw holding the indicator stalk in place and slide it left far enough to be free. Same again with the single screw for the wiper stalk sliding it out to the right then just let them dangle. There are three Torx 20 screws now holding the clock spring itself in place, removing the stalks exposes the two at the top, plus the one on the front right. The top ones are a pain to remove, I had a small socket set that had 1/4in drive with a universal joint and torx bits – made it a lot easier!

Pull the Clock Spring assembly to ward you and remove the three connectors.

Plug them into the new one, making sure to leave the yellow/white blank/locating plug in the top connector of the new clock spring for now as per the below pic. Stick the new clock spring into place, screw it on front and top, replace the indicator and wiper stalks and screw them into place, put the steering wheel back on (will not go on off centre due to the design of the spline) making sure to feed the horn wiring through the top of the wheel like it was to start with. Replace the steering wheel bolt  at stick everything else back together.

Now all that is required to go for a quick test drive to make sure your light is off!

I will start off. I am Dave 🙂

Apparently a know-it-all according to my friends, but in a good way they tell me!  I have a passion for learning new things and a hatred of paying someone to do a job I could do myself (some call me a tight ass). So a good friend and my wife conspired behind my back…[Read more]

This is the procedures that were current of the 2010 model JK Wrangler. Later models have different procedures (I believe the EVIC system controls many of them now)

Procedure to turn off the HSA system (follow this procedure within 90 seconds):

Start with the engine off and vehicle in PARK (automatic transmission) or NEUTRAL with clutch out (manual transmission) with wheels straight. Apply parking brake on manual transmission vehicle.
Start the engine.
With the engine running, the brake applied, and the clutch out, rotate the steering wheel 180° counterclockwise from center.
Press ESP OFF switch four times within twenty seconds.
Rotate the steering wheel 360° clockwise (180° clockwise from center).
Cycle ignition switch OFF then ON.
If the sequence was completed properly, the “ESP/TCS Indicator Light” (the pic of the car with the sqiggly lines underneath it) will blink several times to confirm HSA is off.

Procedure To Turn ON (or OFF) The Permanent ESP Disable Feature:

Verify that the automatic transmission selector is in the “Park” position, and that a manual transmission is in neutral gear.
Shift the transfer case into the 4H range position and ensure parking brake is firmly set.
Turn the steering wheel until it is centred and the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
Turn ignition on (and optionally start engine to make turning the wheel easier – will work with or without engine running) and wait approximately five (5) seconds for the system bulb check to complete.
Turn the steering wheel one-half (½) turn to the right (clockwise).
Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly then release and wait for chime.
Turn the steering wheel back to centre, then continue turning the steering wheel one-half (½) turn to the left (counter clockwise).
Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly, release and wait for chime.
Turn the steering wheel back to centre.
Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds, release and wait for chime.
Cycle the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.

Procedure to reset “Change Oil” warning

From off position turn the ignition to on without starting it
Depress the accelerator pedal to the floor 3 times
Turn the ignition all the way off.

Auto-lock at 15 mph with NO auto unlock all when either front door is opened

Insert the key and cycle the key from insertion position to “on” position 5 times.
Upon completing the 5th cycle make sure the key ends in the “on” position,
Press the Unlock switch up once.

Auto-lock at 15 mph and auto unlock all when either front door is opened

Insert the key and cycle the key from insertion position to “on” position 5 times.
Upon completing the 5th cycle make sure the key ends in the “on” position,
Press the Unlock switch up twice.

One-touch unlock all the doors with Remote

Press and hold the Lock button on the fob for at least 5 seconds but no more than 10.
While still holding the Lock button press and hold the Unlock button.
Release both and test.

Lights flash when locking with Remote

Press the Unlock button on the fob for 4 to 10 seconds.
While still holding the Unlock button press and hold the Lock button.
Release both and test.

Seat Belt Chime Disable

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position
buckle the driver or front passenger seat belt.
Turn the ignition key to the ACCESSORY/RUN position (engine does not need to be running), and wait for the Seat Belt Warning Light to turn off.
Within 60 seconds, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver or front passenger seat belt at least three times within 10 seconds, ending with the seat belt buckled.
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the programming.

When the all-new ’07 Jeep Wrangler hit the streets, it had a lot of technology familiar to Jeep fans as well as a couple of new items. One of those new items is Electronic Stability Program (ESP) which was not only offered for the first time starting with the 2007 models, but was made standard. This doesn’t give you just ESP, though. The program also includes Traction Control System (TCS), Electronic Roll Mitigation (ERM), Brake Assist System (BAS) and Anti-lock Brake System (ABS). See the sidebar “What is ESP and why does my Jeep have it?” for information on what ESP and the related functions are if you haven’t heard of them.

Judging from internet discussions, a lot of JK owners could use a bit more factual information about these systems and how to turn some of them off if they really don’t like them for off-roading or if they have installed larger tires and modified the suspension. We talked to three engineers who worked on the Wrangler, and on these electronic control systems to help explain what really happens when you start pushing buttons, and some tips to make disabling the system a little more science and less black-box magic.

In our experience, ESP works pretty well, and it often saves your skin on super-slippery surfaces so well that you don’t even realize that you would be sliding without it intervening. These engineers knew, however, that TCS would not be good in every situation, and ESP would have a hard time functioning properly once the suspension was lifted and larger tires were installed. All of these systems can work well with these changes, but only if hours of skilled calibration work is completed to take into account the raised centre of gravity and the increased unsprung weight of larger tires. So a few provisions were included in the programming that allows you to de-activate the ESP system. There are partial de-activation, temporary off and disable settings. The sequence to disable ESP isn’t something you’ll do by accident, or without practice for that matter, so we put together a short how-to that takes you through the needed steps.

The advantage of working with the system rather than just pulling the BAS fuse is that you can keep the ABS function even if you turn off everything else. And using the system allows you to turn off certain parts of it when you want for the best combination of electronic and driver control.

There’s “Off” And Then There’s “Really Off” The first acknowledgement that not everyone and not every situation calls for ESP comes in the ability to tone down the system. There are three ESP modes in 2H and 4H which you can select – Full On, Full Off, and Partial On – and two modes in 4L which the vehicle selects automatically and a disable feature. Full On is the way the vehicle comes from the factory, and it is active in 2H and 4H. It addresses any wheel slippage and is usually a good safety system without being too intrusive.

Some situations call for a little bit wheel slip, however, when you’re trying to accelerate, which is when Partial On is handy. This de-activates the throttle control part of TCS when the transfer case is in 2H or 4H, allowing the tires to spin without electronic control. This is especially handy in soft sand and deep snow. To engage this Partial On setting, push the ESP Off button in the center stack. The ESP light (this is the icon of a car with squiggly lines under it in the center of the instrument panel) will come on and a chime will sound. To turn the system back on, press the ESP Off button again. The system will also turn back on when the key is turned off and then on again.

Full Off mode can be selected when the transfer case is in 4H. This shuts off all ESP and TCS features for speeds below 40 mph. To activate this mode, have the transfer case in 4H, the vehicle stopped and the engine running. Press and hold the ESP Off switch for five seconds. You’ll hear a chime and the ESP light on the instrument panel will come on. If you drive over 40 mph, the system reverts to Partial On until the vehicle slows down to 35 mph. You can turn ESP and TCS back on by pushing the ESP Off button again or by keying the vehicle off and then back on.

In 4L, ESP and TCS automatically turn to Full Off. The only time ESP would switch on is if you drive over 40 mph. Once the vehicle slows to 35 mph it switches back to Full Off again.

And finally, the mode that is the most hidden and the one that most of you are interested in – Disable. This mode is designed to shut off ESP and ERM completely to avoid false activations that can occur with larger tires and a modified suspension. The system does not automatically reset, but can be turned back on by repeating the steps.

Going through the steps to reach the Disable mode is a lot like doing the Hokey Pokey, so you’ll need to follow the photo sequence for step-by-step directions. It often takes four, five, or six attempts to successfully Disable the system. One final note; the 2007 model year (and early 2008 models) didn’t have the Disable mode programmed into the computer. A Technical Service Bulletin has been issued by Chrysler LLC, allowing a dealership to reflash the computer and enable the Disable feature. If you own an ’07 and want to disable the ESP, your first step is visiting the dealership. It would also seem that this has been removed from later vehicles, with the 2013 user manual no longer mentioning this option.

What Is ESP And Why Does My Jeep Have It?

Electronic Stability Program (ESP) is a chassis electrical system that monitors the direction your Jeep is going compared to what direction you want the vehicle to go, and then takes automatic actions to try to make the Jeep go the way you want. When a vehicle is sliding (oversteer or understeer), the system can decrease throttle and apply the brakes to one or more wheels to bring the vehicle back to the path that you are indicating with the steering wheel.

Oversteer is when the rear tires lose traction in a corner and the rear of the vehicle swings out. Understeer is when the front tires lose traction, not being able to turn the vehicle as quickly or as sharply as desired, and the front of the vehicle pushes forward instead of turning. The key components in the ESP system are a steering wheel sensor, yaw sensor, lateral acceleration sensor and automatic brake actuator that can apply pressure to the four brakes independently.

Electronic Roll Mitigation (ERM) is an extension of the ESP programming that anticipates a potential roll over caused by oversteer. It can’t help in the slow type of roll over that happens on a trail caused by excessive side angle.

Traction Control System (TCS) does exactly what you expect it would – it applies the brakes and can decrease throttle to slow the tires if they are spinning when you are trying to accelerate. There is a limited slip feature built into this programming that will apply some braking to one tire if it is slipping more than the others. This redistributes the torque to the tires that are not slipping as much. This limited slip feature is active even when the rest of TCS is turned off (ESP is switched to Partial Off or Full Off modes).

Antilock Braking System (ABS) reduces braking force on an individual wheel if it detects the wheel has stopped turning (locked up) during braking, just enough to get the wheel turning again and regain steering control. This will usually be felt through the brake pedal as a pulsating sensation or a shuddering through the cabin.

Brake Assist System (BAS) detects an emergency brake application and assists by applying the brakes at absolute maximum braking force in combination with the ABS system until either the vehicle stops or the brake pedal is released.

And why would you want this automatic stuff on your Jeep? You might not, but the technology saves a lot of people who get into situations they can’t drive out of. And no matter how good of a driver you are, you don’t have the ability to apply one brake at a time, which is the advantage this technology gives the vehicle.

Quick Guide

As with most new systems, there is a lot to digest in the new Electronic Stability Program (ESP) and bundled technology. This is especially true for ESP on the 2007 through 2009 Jeep Wrangler, as it has functions and modes offered only on the Wrangler. Here’s a quick guide that you can clip out and toss in your glove box.

ESP Mode
Available When
T-case is in:
Activate/
Deactivate Mode
ESP Function
ERM Function
BAS and ABS Function
TCS Function

Full On
2H and 4H
Default setting; no need to do anything
Fully active
Fully active
Fully active
Fully active

Partial Off
2H and 4H
Press the ESP Off button once
Fully active
Fully active
Fully active
Throttle control off, Traction control is off, but limited slip feature is still active

Full Off
4H
Press hold the ESP Off button for 5 seconds
Completely disabled below 40 mph
Completely disabled below 40 mph
Fully active
Throttle control off, Traction control is off, but limited slip feature is still active

Full Off
4L
Automatically switches on/ off when the transfer case is shifted in and out of 4L
Completely disabled below 40 mph
Completely disabled below 40 mph
Fully active, off-road ABS
Throttle control off, Traction control is off, but limited slip feature is still active

Disable
(2007 to 2012)
2H, 4H and 4L
Do the Hokey Pokey as outlined below
Completely disabled
Completely disabled
Fully active, off-road ABS in 4L
Throttle control off, Traction control is off, but limited slip feature is still active

To avoid false Electronic Stability Program (ESP) activations sometimes caused by larger tires and modified suspension, the system can be disabled. To keep people from unintentionally disabling ESP, it takes quite a few steps.

Start with the engine off, the vehicle stopped, the steering wheel straight, the front tires pointing straight forward and the transfer case in 4H.

Turn the ignition key from off to on (you can start the engine if you want) and wait about five seconds, which is just after the chiming stops. Most of the dash warning lights will turn off, as shown. Turn the steering wheel between the 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock position and then recentre it, holding it still for a few seconds. Now turn the steering wheel right 180 degrees (clockwise). The word Jeep should be upside down in the center of the steering wheel. It is very important that you do not let the wheel slip backward at all once you move it into position.

Hold the steering wheel in position and press and hold the ESP Off button for seven seconds. There will be a chime at five seconds, but hold the button for the full seven seconds.

Then turn the steering wheel back to centre and then a continue turning left to 180 degrees counter-clockwise. The word Jeep will once again be upside down in the center of the steering wheel. Remember not to let the steering wheel back up once you move it into position. You may or may not hear chimes – ignore them.

Press and hold the ESP Off button for seven seconds.

Then turn the wheel back to center (with the word Jeep right side up and the wheels pointing straight). Press and hold the ESP Off button one more time for another seven seconds.

Turn the ignition key to off. If you did it correctly, “ESP Off” will show in the instrument cluster below the tachometer for a few seconds each time the ignition is turned on, and the ESP light will stay on.

Original article from JP Magazine 1st May 2009, updated and added to by David Baker 2014.

You are most likely the victim of the dreaded Clock Spring failure.  The Clock Spring is a component that sits around the steering column, just behind the steering wheel. It has two main functions, one is to measure the position of the steering wheel/column for the ABS/ESP system, the other is it has a flexible cable to connect the electrics in the steering wheel to the vehicle computer – like the Horn, the Airbag, the Cruise Control, and on later models, the steering wheel controls for the stereo.

Now the bit that really gets on my nerves is that in the US the Right Hand Drive models from 2008 to 2012 have been recalled to be replaced with a newer (and presumably more robust) version, and the pre 2008 models have had the warranty on the Clock Spring module extended to 10 years. Out here, after two letters to Chrysler Jeep Australia, I go the same answer back from “Rob” both times – its not a recall in Australia, go ask the Dealer if they will give you a discount to replace it as it is out of warranty. The reason price came into the comment was I queried why the part was available directly delivered to my door from the US for $236 Aus, yet from Jeep Australia it is a measly $1,000+ plus fitting.

So, I have just ordered one from the US and when it arrives I will add to this post with pictures and descriptions of how to replace it.

PS. Since it was the subject of a recall in the US as it was stopping a mandatory safety component from working (the drivers airbag), I have just filled in a vehicle safety complaint form to the Government department that handles safety recalls on motor vehicles to see if at least people in the future with similar problems will be looked after.

To be continued – click here for the next chapter!

First to get to the handbrake mechanism you need to remove the centre console.

Step one, pull off both the gear stick knob and the transfer case knob. To do this, grab the knob with both hands and simply pull. You may need to wriggle it a little but then it will pop off. Be careful of your head – when it breaks free it does so quite suddenly!

Then pop the lower dash cover off (sits just in front off the gear stick) by pulling the top straight back on both sides then lift straight up.

Now remove the gear stick surround by lifting the rear edges up to release the clips then slide back and the front will come unhooked.  Lift up now over the gear stick.

Now to lift the handbrake to maximum height, locate the silver tab at the tip of the screwdriver and push it down whilst lifting the handbrake lever. The lever will come all the way to the top making removal of the centre console much easier.

Now undo the four torx screws that hold down the centre console, one either side at the front, and one either side at the rear. You will have to slide the seats forward to see the rear ones. Once undone, lift the rear of the console until it clears the handbrake then simply slide it back and remove it.

After uncovering it I did a (very rough) video of both how it works and why it doesn’t!

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ag5OO4d_B0%5D

So what to do now?  I looked around in the garage and the drawers and could not find a spring to use.  So time to improvise with a temp solution. I found some light bungy cord I had been using to tie a tarpr down on the boat, and mode up some small hooks for each end out of some coat hangar wire. At least doing it this way I could fine tune the tension much easier than if using a spring.  And the result?

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHf6Eyxn2ok%5D

Hope that helps someone! Cheers, Dave.

Over time the sheet expanded to include petrol, diesel, auto and manual with all variations of gearboxes. Simply enter the tyre size and select the diff ratio and transfer case ratio then type in the speed and the approx RPM will be shown.

After mucking around a bit and then testing against real life, I discovered the rolling diameter of a tyre is around 96% of the measured diameter. So I have changed the calculations to use this instead (basically the rolling diameter of a tyre is approx the diameter of the steel belt which sits just under the rubber at the base of the tread, ie a bald tyre).

I have now successfully converted the Excel spreadsheet to an online version that you see below (I have noticed it can take a little delay to show on older/slower computers so please be patient if the below section is blank).

Hope it helps you!

So, they brought out a service manual to fix the leaks!  This is applicable for the older models, up to around 2010. Later models most of these fixes were already implemented but it is still handy to pinpoint where the water may be coming from.

JK_Water_Leaks_All

This is unfortunately not an uncommon problem on the JK, the transfer case push/pull cable is held on at each end by a simple plastic clip which breaks with no real notice. I know it happens with older models, his was is a 2010, but I can’t confirm if it affects later models.

If it feels completely loose, the cable is probably disconnected at the shifter in the passenger compartment. If it still feels like there is some resistance, then it may have come loose under the Jeep by the transfer case. You can remove the one Torx bolt on the passenger side on the center console where the shifter is and pry it up and hold it open with a small flashlight. However we simply removed the 4 Torx bolts that hold the centre console in place and lifted it up. We also pulled the gearstick surround off (pry the back edge up either side then slide back and the front comes out). Wriggle and pull and the transfer case lever knob pops off. Lift the console up and you can see underneath from the passenger side. As a quick fix we looped a cable tie under the cable and lever mechanism and through a hole in a metal tab sticking out of the floor behind the gear lever then back under the lever mechanism and this time over the cable. Tighten (loosely) around the cable to give gentle pressure to hold it onto the lever and done. Took all of 10 mins in the field.

This is disconnected at the console end (clip missing/broken)

This is the Transfer Case end (plastic clip still attached). Notice it is above the transfer case end of the front drive shaft and a little hard to get to:

This is someones (not mine – found pic on Google) temp fix for the transfer case end:

The OEM part number for the plastic clip is 68064273AA There area few stronger fixes out there using metal parts if you Google this problem. This is the clip in question for the centre console end (ruler is in inches, another Google pic):

Hope this helps you out on the road like it did for us.

Cheers, Dave.

A recent round trip from Noosa to Albury and back towing the new Jayco Dove.

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